Regensburg, Germany, Revisited

Regensburg, Germany, Revisited

Originally published on my A Travel for Taste blog on November 18, 2012

Since starting this Colorado Cottage Food business and establishing the website, I’ve ceased posting to my previous travel and food blog, A Travel for Taste. BUT, I’ve found I have really missed sharing my travels with the world. So, in the spirit of sharing, I’ll be posting travel stories here on the new blog. I’ll start it off with this one, a re-post of a trip to Regensburg, Germany, I took a few years ago:

Recently my husband and I visited Regensburg – first time for him, second time for me. Regensburg is one of the most aesthetically beautiful cities I’ve ever seen – I’d rank it with Paris, though much smaller. In fact, it’s very French in its flavor, despite being located in Germany on the Danube.

We stayed in the wonderful Hotel Orphee. I mentioned it in my previous Regensburg post as the café where I had brunch with friends. The café is attached to the Grand Hotel, but there is also a Petit Hotel down the street, as well as a location across the Danube called the Country Manor. James and I stayed in the Country Manor. It was wonderful!

Here are some shots of our room – with terrace – and the abundant breakfast they brought to our room each morning:

The Danube splits into two or three canals in Regensburg. Here’s a shot of the locks on a footbridge across one of the canals between our hotel and the Old Town sector:

This shot is from another bridge over the Danube proper. The huge church in the background is the cathedral. The thing is enormous! It dominates the landscape and you can use its spires as an orientation device when you get a little lost wandering around.

Here’s a shot of the Cathedral spires through the top of our city tour bus, a gargoyle and a shot from inside the massive building:

A door for Deb with a lucky chimney sweep motif:

This is a monument to Johannes Kepler. 1571-1630, who was a mathemetician and astronomer whose work influenced Isaac Newton and many others. He was born in the Stuttgart area but lived and was buried in Regensburg. He wrote his own epitaph, which I find very poetic, even translated from the original Latin into English:

I measured the skies, now the shadows I measure

Skybound was the mind, earthbound the body rests.

We had lunch one day at a restaurant with tables outside in the warm sunshine. We ordered the platter for two with a selection of local Wurst. I refer to this lunch as SausageFest 2012:

We also visited the palace of Thurn und Taxis – no, it has nothing to do with taxicabs. Thurn und Taxis is actually the last name of the family that owns the palace. This family established one of the largest organized postal systems in Europe in the 1400s and made a fortune at it. Eventually, one of them was appointed a member of the Holy Roman Emperor’s court.

Today, the heirs to this legacy and fortune are Johannes and his wife Gloria von Thurn und Taxis. They still hold the titles of Prince and Princess – not sure how that works. From what I understand, Gloria is very active in the Regensburg community and can be seen at charity and social events around town. She seems committed to her city and also seems to be well-loved. In fact, she narrates the audioguide for the palace tours!

The palace is actually a renovated monastery and is said to have more rooms than Buckingham Palace. I wouldn’t know first-hand because we didn’t have enough time to tour it.

We did, however, tour the carriage house and treasure rooms. Here’s James knocking on the door:

Since photos aren’t allowed, I don’t have any to post here. However, you can see some impressive horse carriages that we were able to inspect closeup here. Most impressive was the tour of the so-called Treasure Chamber, which, oddly enough, sounds better in German: Schatzkammer. In it we saw elaborate table settings and silverware, etc. The most impressive thing, in addition to the crowns and tiaras, was the diamond hook-and-loop fasteners on a black silk tunic worn at court back in the day. Awesome!

After our tour we lunched at a small bistro just outside. Told you the place has a French flavor:

Too soon our visit in Regensburg came to an end. But we will return, and I strongly recommend this wonderful city!

As a footnote, here are some shots of us at the Heckenwirtschaft (wine joint) that our German friends took us to the following week. Note the strong presence of Federweisser!

Heckenwirtschaft literally translates as “hedge business” and they are only open a few weeks in the spring and fall. To signal they are open, it’s traditional to hang a bough or two of – what else – branches from the hedge.

Enjoying Federweisser:

The real deal Flammkuchen: It looks like a pizza but the crust is paper-thin and very crispy. The topping has no tomato sauce, just cheese, ham, and onions. I’d only ever had the frozen species before, but this was marvelous!

That’s it til next time. Have fun!
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